Socks? Yes. Thermals? Yes. Long sleeve shirt? Yes.

Beanie? Water bottles? Yes. Yes.

Okay, I’m ready for bed.

If you can look past the mildew spots in the corner, Room #2 at the Ivy Bank lodge has a lot going for it. Pretty wood trim. Nice hardwood floors. And three generally tasty meals a day.

But one thing it doesn’t have is central heating. Nor do most other places in Mussoorie either.

For most of the year, that isn’t a big deal. But in December? Cold, cold, cold. Apparently, Mussoorie had its first snowfall last night. By the time I made it up the hill to my Hindi classes, the snow had melted away. But regardless, it is yet another sign that winter has arrived in the Himalayan foothills.

I knew when I bought my thermals in Landour Bazaar that I’d be putting them to use. Through good hard bargaining, I brought the store owners down from 150 rupees to 135 rupees. But it never occurred to me that I was purchasing sleepwear.

Tonight, the thermals aren’t enough. After spending too many nights in the cold, I’m trying a new tactic: hot water bottles. First, you turn on your geyser — a wall-mounted unit that heats up just enough water for a five minute shower. Then, you wait twenty minutes for the aforementioned water to get hot. Finally, you fill the bottles up and stick them under your blanket at the foot of your bed.

Now my feet are nice and toasty. We’ll see how long the bottles stay hot — and how well I sleep tonight.