Posted by: Sanjeev | March 30, 2008

Santa Clara, India

It’s 3 AM, and a tall Ernst & Young building towers over us. My friend tells me that the next one over is an outsourced call center for another tech company. We sit in plastic chairs at a dusty roadside dhaba, as kids who should be sleeping take our orders. Stuffed parathas, aachar, and chai.

By day, the city of Gurgaon is like a distant Indian cousin to one of Highway 101’s Southbay cities. The Southbay is some 45 minutes south of San Francisco, and it is home to the shiny buildings that are monuments to the Silicon Valley economy. The “knowledge workers” moved to these cities — Santa Clara, Redwood City, etc — for the jobs. And the builders of these towns frequently poured asphalt and laid foundations with only the shiny buildings in mind. Later came the thoughts of culture, sprawl, and livability.

Gurgaon is no different. As you scan the flat, dusty lands, you can see the city climbing towards the skies, one glass building at a time. And you can also see the bright new housing colonies popping up too. Like the distance between the Southbay and San Francisco, Gurgaon is a 45 minute drive from Delhi. It is home to call centers, management consulting firms, and all the shiny new jobs that make up the shiny new India.

Much like Silicon Valley in its younger days, Gurgaon appears to be growing without answers to the questions that will only be asked later. Two activists used India’s new Right to Information (RTI) Act to find out about Gurgaon’s public transportation plans. (India’s RTI Act is in the same class of laws as the U.S. Freedom of Information Act — only much, much stronger.) The activists’ efforts were covered in the Indian magazine, Civil Society.

They wanted to see all the city documents regarding public transportation plans. And under the RTI Act, they were entitled to get what they asked for. Only problem was, there weren’t any documents. The city hadn’t done any planning on public transportation needs.

And so all the people who serve the knowledge workers — maids, cooks, laborers, etc — seem left out of the equation. My friend and other peers of mine who are part of the Gurgaon economy are kind enough to give me a ride in their cars. I can afford the occasional 800 to 1000 rupees ($20 to $25) to go there and back via taxi. But for a maid, that kind of money might be half her earnings for the month.

I did see a Delhi bus taking lower income riders between the two cities. But within Gurgaon itself, it didn’t seem like there were many options. India Shining is a wonderful thing, but city planners need to peer into the economy’s shadows as well.


Responses

  1. Nice article. It will be great if you can also write in SiliconIndia as I am a member of SiliconIndia, I am sure that most of the members will like reading it. http://www.siliconindia.com/register.php?id=T49I1Fh5

  2. I work for a consulting firm in Gurgaon and moved here a year ago from the south of India. I live in Sector-56, the farthest and fastest developing part of Gurgaon. I do not own a private vehicle and like you, survive on my friends’ to hitch a ride to Delhi, else use the expensive private cabs (although very occasionally).

    Reading your post, I am not sure if you are talking about public tranportation system within Gurgaon or between Gurgaon-Delhi and Gurgaon-Noida (NCR region).

    Talking about public transportation within Gurgaon, there are three modes as of now: cycle rickshaws, shared autos and private buses (which look more like vans). I use these three quite regularly and do not face a mobility problem. In fact, I find them more efficient than most urban public transportation systems in other parts of India. Now, we could replace this system with say a proper transportation system funded by the Haryana govt, but I wonder what my loyal rickshaw puller and the shared auto drivers (who have invested considerable money taken with high interests) would do for a living. I dont remember the last time the Indian government compensated the lower income group adequately for displacing them from their land or jobs. So, as easy as it is for us to think these people may want better public transportation, we also need to step back and think if it would really help them as much. And if its even worth it. Or, would they just be happy being how they live.
    When I was in Pushkar a few months ago, I saw a few tractors in the fair grounds. I was worried these innocent villagers were lured into buying tractors (by the corporates) and now have to face the same problems as we do in our everyday lives – pollution, rising oil prices, etc. They were better off with just camels and wihout our assumption that they would be better on mobility, with tractors. Its a fine line when we speak for the downtrodden, and as CK Prahalad says in his book (Fortune at the Bottom of the Pyramid), we need innovative ways to provide products/services to the lower income group and not re-engineer proven solutions.

    To your point that we need more buses on the Gurgaon-Delhi route, I completely agree. But Metro is already on its way and should be ready next year, and hence the government or private players are not as keen on investing in that route. However, you can take a call centre cab from IFFCO chowk or Dhaula Kaun for 10 bucks to reach Delhi or Gurgaon. And they are quite easy to get, with a bit of a fight. But trust me, its a comfort ride compared to a crowded bus that might be.

    Cheers

  3. Mahesh – interesting post, thanks. I’ll defer to you on the actual quality of on-the-ground transportation options in Gurgaon. I was but a mere visitor who decided to write some observations about the intersection of what I saw and what I read.

    But I do wonder if autorickshaws, etc, are expensive options for lower-income communities in Gurgaon. A bus ride in Delhi is maybe 10 or 15 rupees, while an auto ride is on the meter and considerably higher. Similarly, I wonder if the private buses, etc, are too expensive for people who are only earning 150 to 200 rupees a day.

  4. Sanjana -

    If SiliconIndia has an easy way to “stream” in my blog posts from here, happy to do it. But I don’t know about starting a second blog!

    - sb

  5. Thanks for the comment.

    These are shared autorickshaws and private buses that operate within Gurgaon and the fares range between Rs.2 on the low side to Rs.10 on the high side. I agree they are not high volume nor are they as safe as you want to be, but they work.

    Also, most people you mention (maids, cooks,etc) in Gurgaon do not really have a reason to commute to Delhi. They live around here and walk or ride a cycle to work, and most of their needs are met in the weekly market down the road. The only time they get out of Gurgaon is when they goto their respective villages around here.

  6. Huh, well maybe there isn’t a problem after all then? If there is public transportation for the masses, then I’m not sure what the big hoo-hah is all about. Maybe the Civil Society article was a bit off-base?

  7. Public transportation in the way you mentioned, doesn’t exist. But is it something the Haryana Govt has to worry about right now? I am not sure. I need to get a balanced view, one from the Govt too, to make that call.

    I would have appreciated if the Civil Society guys actually dug deeper to know WHY there is no plan, rather than just reporting there is no plan. And hence create an image that low-incomers are not being accounted in the growth process, which is quite the case in most reporting.

    As an Indian, looking at where India is in terms of education, health, public services, jobs, etc, I think the politicians have done a really good job (atleast the present government). Doesn’t mean I wouldn’t question when things go wrong, but I would count in the fact its a developing economy (democratic) and things just wont happen at the pace a 20 or 30 yr old would expect. The culture and will within the machinery is not the same as outside. Nor are complaining outsiders (=us) doing much to make it better.

    I choose to stay a realist.

  8. ..and please dont fall into the trap of blaming the Government for everything.
    Thats what my dad’s friends do, my granddad did, my uncle who moved to California in the 70s (hardly knows anything about the US prez elections even!) does and so do most of my friends.
    Cheers

  9. Well, I’d disagree with the notion that one can’t blame the government. Corruption is so rampant and endemic across so many government strata that very little money allocated for social welfare spending actually makes it to intended targets.


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